Chad

Found a dip to camp in and set off round the lake the next day. We followed the main piste and ended up by the Lake which was odd as we didn't think we could see it to the town of Bol. The helpful police in the village said to turn back and turn right at the cows! Having past hundreds of cows with the largest horns we have ever seen we followed a GPS bearing to a stone near the first Chad checkpoint. We arrived at the out post having covered nearly 90 km, a sign there said it was 45km back to Nguigmi.

From the border the piste is quite clear to Daboua although the going ranges between very soft and hard sand, the Pinzgauer got stuck just outside the village. We were ushered into four different huts. The Gendarmere, Police and Security Police all laboriously wrote down our details in their exercise books and then asked for cadeaux. We said no and they let it go. In the customs they took details of the vehicles and insurance but we had to go to Bol to get the Carnet stamped. From Daboua we turned right and headed for Kisskawa and Liwa. To Liwa the going is soft and the piste gradually turns into a very old road which has pretty much disintegrated. We followed it into Baga Sola thinking it led to Bol and saw the lake again! We were not looking forward to Bol as we had heard about aggressive kids and stone throwing but we had no problems, a very efficient customs man and pretty tame kids, except for a mad man that followed Slade around every where he went. We also met a very enthusiastic restaurant man who served us Tripe and sauce, which Bayo later enjoyed. We can't say anything good about the road from Bol to the tarmac at Massakori. The road that was once there is a mass of ruts, holes and dust. Everything was covered in it. Krissys hair turned grey and Tubbs stuck together into dreads. Our garden spray shower wasn't up to the job of keeping us free of this fesh fesh (fine sand). We now know what the expression, 'eat my dust' really means. Although the scenery compensated somewhat for the discomfort we were pleased to finish the 4 day, 500km, Lake Chad circuit. The landscape is interesting as it is the old lake bed. The sand is full of shells and changes colour from dark grey to more irony colours. There are dried up mini lakes, oasis towns with palm trees and the nomadic Toubou people to watch. They are of Arab descent and are the real desert people living the same lifestyle as they always have.

Unfortunately the stories we'd heard about Chad came true at Massokori. The kids descended on the vehicles demanding cadeaux. Best to ignore them but hard not to when they were knocking us with their bowls. As we left Tubbs got hit in the face by half a flip flop, Krissy got kicked and Elsa had things thrown at her. We stopped to pump up our tyres and two herdsmen approached. The people here often carry axes or bows and arrows. They demanded Cadeaux but in an aggression manner which we haven't really seen before. As we tried to drive off they grabbed the steering wheel and Slades arm and started waving the axe screaming for Cadeaux. Luckily Slade was one step ahead and had picked up the pepper spray (thanks Didi) and gave them a good dose in the eyes. It gave us enough time to drive away although one tried to chase us and fire his arrow at the landy!!

Our lifestyle changed considerably on reaching N'djamena. We are staying with Tubbs' friend Jude's friend's boyfriend - Mark! That's pretty close out here, practically family and he'd kindly said he'd put us up. We have been driving pretty much every day for the past two weeks to cover the 2000 odd kilometers from Mali and reached N'djamena feeling very dirty and tired. We were pretty much hallucinating about his place but our dreams were realized as he has luxuries such as a hot shower, Sky tele, washing machine, swimming pool, fast internet connection and loads of space. We have made ourselves at home, had people over for dinner, been out to Braai's and are generally having a good time. Mark thinks his place resembles the big brother house at the moment! We are making the most it!! THANKS MARK!!!!!! Off to Cameroon some when soon.............

Chad continued

We left N'djamena more exhausted than we arrived after 10 days in the Big Brother house. We needed to get back into the bush for an early night.  Partying Louisiana style (thumbs up, thumbs down) on Saturday night, late nights, socializing, playing rugby and running was obviously too much for us. It is hard to believe but we did some sport. Mark took us to the National Stadium where he helps coach the Chad rugby team.  Slade got involved with the training before picking up an injury.  Krissy and Tubbs did circuits running with barefoot, sports mad kids and Chad athletic groups before getting wiped out in a football match with the local kids, who thought it was great to run rings and dust around us.

Practically we managed to get visas for Cameroon within 24 hours at a cost of 30,000CFA. The motor insurance for Central Africa cost 45,000CFA (£45) and would cover us to Congo but not the Democratic Republic of Congo.

Outside our security gate life is a lot different than what we were experiencing. Ndjamena itself is a very basic and rundown place. Bullet ridden shops and bombed out buildings are all around the town, left over from the civil war 20 years ago.  New buildings are dotted around and there are signs of change. There are lots of aid organizations and NGOs here. The Grande Marche is worth a visit; a large market selling practically everything and lots of veggies and meat. It is also much cheaper than the supermarkets - the owners of which sell goods at 4 times the price than anywhere else in West Africa. 

Before we started to become permanent residents in the Esso compound we left. Thanks Mark, Ben, Jerome, Sophie, Chili, Becky, Fernando, Nasa for a great time.

Two signs pointing in different directions directed us to Cameroon. Confusing, we needed to engage our traveling heads again.  After choosing the wrong one we eventually crossed the Chari River and found Chad customs and police. After being fielded to several different wooden huts we were stamped out of the country.

Summary Chad

Currency Exchange West Africa CFA for Central Africa CFA at 1:1 rate with Customs at Nguigmi

Large Stone near Chad border GPS N14 °24.75 E13°28.35 (handy to point you in the right direction as it is easy to lose the main piste out of Nguigmi.

Entry formalities carried out in Daboua

Carnet stamped in Bol (next to the lake)

Cameroon Visa  in N'djamena - 30,000 CFA 24 hours

Central African road insurance in N'djamena - 45,000 CFA.  Covers to Congo but not DRC.

GPS coordinates for Marks place - only joking Mark!